One day your manicure looks so good, you wonder if you’ve missed your calling as a hand model. The next day, you start to notice that your nails have started to split and peel. What’s going on?
“The nails can be a window into your overall health and provide clues to an underlying issue,” explained dermatologist Dr. Brittany Oliver. “But before you start stressing about a vitamin deficiency or visit Dr. Google to self-diagnose a health problem, first consider the many possible physical insults your nails face every day and the role that natural aging plays in nail health.”
Here’s how your nails function.
Nails are composed of elements present in other parts of the body, including protein and keratin, which are in hair and skin. “Fingernails are made by a type of nails ‘factory,’ called the nail matrix, which is found under the cuticle,” explained dermatologist Dr. Claire Wolinsky. “The area under the nail plate itself is called the nail bed. Trauma to the nail matrix can lead to permanent changes in the nail plate.”
Since there’s a medical term for everything, there are two terms to describe the problem: “The medical terms for nail splitting include onychorrhexis (vertical ridging and splitting) and onychoschizia (horizontal splitting),” Oliver said.
Healthy nails are just part of your overall good health, said dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry. She described the look you’re going for: “Healthy fingernails should be smooth and free of pits and grooves, and they should be a consistent color in their natural state.”
What’s making my nails split?
If you’re noticing more split nails than usual, you may want to start thinking about how life has been for your nails lately. Are you treating them right or being tough on them?
“Some of the same things that influence skin and hair health influence nail health,” Oliver said, so consider the way you pamper your skin and hair, like gentle cleansing and moisturizing, and do the same for your nails.
Here are some possible reasons for split nails:
Nutrition and hydration: “There are many variables that can contribute to fingernail health, primarily internal causes like diet and hydration,” said manicurist Thuy Nguyen. “In a busy modern world, we’re often running through the day, sometimes forgetting to eat and hydrate properly, and this can affect nail health significantly.”
Stress: “Chronic stress can decrease the moisture from our bodies, some of which is necessary for nail health, and so nail splitting happens as a result of it,” Nguyen said.
Dryness and aging: “Just as skin gets drier as we get older, due to decreased lipid production related to hormonal changes, so, too, do our nails,” Olivier said.
Cold temps: “Weather that’s too cold can dry out cuticles,” Nguyen said, noting that well-moisturized cuticles, which often become dry and cracked in the cold, are an often overlooked factor in nail health.
Over-washing and over-sanitizing: “One of the common reasons that you might see nail splitting or weak nails is from frequent hand washing, dishwashing or over-use of hand sanitizers,” Henry said. “These things can dry out the nails, making them brittle and prone to splitting and breaking.”
Unsafe ingredients: “Excessive exposure to harsh chemicals may strip the nails of moisture, causing damage just as it would for the skin,” Oliver said.
Some manicures can hurt nails.
“Gel polish itself can be dehydrating, and the subsequent soaking of nails to remove the gel polish can also weaken the nail plate, leading to splitting,” Wolinsky said. The timing and quality of the treatment can also make a difference: “We often see nail trauma from overuse of gel nail polish or when nail technicians are being overly aggressive during removal,” Henry said. “This can lead to damage of the nail plate.”
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One particular area of concern is what’s known as a Russian manicure, which removes the cuticles entirely. “It can lead to infection and inflammation of the cuticle, known as paronychia,” Wolinsky said.
If you’ve been struggling with splitting nails but still getting manicures, it might be time for a pause. “Taking a break from manicures, to moisturize and allow the nail plate to recover, can also be helpful,” Wolinsky said.
And whatever you do, don’t pick at that manicure, Henry said. “Picking at or peeling off polish, gels or acrylics can damage the nail plate. Really, any improper removal is going to remove layers of the nails, making them thin and weak.”
These tips can prevent split nails, but know when to see a doctor.
Henry had some good suggestions for getting your nails back into tip-top shape. She suggested taking a low-dose biotin supplement and being diligent about keeping your hands moisturized. There are things you can stop doing too, like peeling or picking at your nails. Another behavior to avoid, Wolinsky said, is aggressive pushing back of the cuticles.
Nguyen has a product suggestion that might help. “I’ve been using a new bond repair product called ePhD. I’ve used it on myself and noticed an improvement after one use. I also used it on my clients and have seen significant improvement in the health of their nails.”
“If you’ve tried all these approaches and nothing is helping, there are times when medical help is necessary,” Oliver said. “Less common causes for nail splitting include malnutrition or vitamin deficiencies, which is uncommon in the United States on a typical Western diet. Other medical causes can be hypothyroidism or diseases that affect the nail, such as psoriasis. Medications such as oral retinoids and chemotherapy can also cause nails to weaken and split,” she said.
“See a dermatologist or doctor if you notice any major changes to your nails, such as color or texture, so you can rule out any possible medical conditions,” Henry added.
Looking for more help? Reviewers swear by these nail strengtheners for giving nails new life.
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